sewing project details and explanations

these art the tie backs for my new curtains, on my ironing board.

I made the curtains out of the blue fabric and lined them with white but I didn’t sew the heading on the curtains yet because I want to get the rod hung first so I can be sure of the finished length. I tried to hang the rod myself and it isn’t working out. I tried to drill small holes in the places for my brackets and the dry wall chipped a little. No big deal, these are old apartments. I tried to avoid a previous hole that was patched.

I remember hanging curtain rods before but it’s been a long time. I remember using wall anchors and once had wall anchors that I could use and once I had some I couldn’t use. I guess I’ll have to call the office and ask if a maintenance guy can help me with the curtain rods. So the curtain job is on hold for now.

The tie backs and valance are reversible with blue on one side and peach on the other with cord top and bottom in another contrasting orange color.

This arty shot is the valance on my ironing board.

It’s 9 inches by 3 yards with a 3 inch rod pocket in the center and a 3 inch heading top and bottom. I figured approximately 2.5 or 3 to one on the fullness to come up with 3 yards. It gets hung on a 2.5 inch flat curtain rod with a 4 inch return to the wall so it will clear the curtains which have a 2 inch return. I had to order the rod. First I looked it up on amazon and it said 3 weeks for delivery! So I waited for the store here that makes custom window treatments to open and called them. They don’t have the rod in stock either. It should be here in a week. They call it a continental rod. The guy told me no one asks for them these days, which is a shame because this valance is so cute and you can fool around arranging it in different ways.

The fabric will gather on the rod but the cording won’t. Then you can arrange the line of cord at least 3 different ways that I know of. You could cork screw it around the rod, you could put it on the rod straight and then twist the bottom up to the top in waves all the way across, which would also show the contrasting lining, or you can put the valance on the rod straight and twist the top and bottom cords separately. I don’t know if you can visualize that, I’ll post pix as soon as I get it all hung.

If you want to sew this type of valance, it’s not difficult. One tip I can give is when sewing long strips of fabric together you can get a cumulative error that doesn’t show up till you’re all the way across. You might get an annoying twist because the layers don’t feed through at exactly the same rate. Unless you have a walking foot machine which I don’t.

The way to avoid the bias twist is to sew over your pins. I use T pins and don’t want to break needles because that’s hard on the machine. I sew up to the pin then walk the needle over the pin by turning the wheel by hand a few times. When you do that you make tiny tucks at the pins which take up the slack on the top piece of fabric. Can you see the tucks on my photo? It doesn’t matter if you have tucks on the valance since it’s gathered on the rod and it keeps it from going on the bias which might show up in the end or cause some twisting on the rod where you don’t want twisting.

This is another project that’s on hold for a week until the rod comes in. I’m excited to see it hung and play around with the valance. This will be a long week and it’s raining.

8 thoughts on “sewing project details and explanations”

    1. Hi DaNice, Thanks! One time I looked at it all I got was the photo with no text at all, so I wasn’t sure. The new editor isn’t easy for me, I keep going to different blocks and don’t get where I want to be.

      Like

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